Friday, July 18, 2014

Nocino update


Here's what the Nocino looks like after the half way point or so... Starting to go from a brighter green into as one recipe described it "swamp water" green. The aroma and taste are starting to head towards the real thing too... Patience, patience, patience. Should be great for the long "cold" winter!

Cafe Mingei Start-up Project



I'm in the midst of creating the menu for a new start-up Cafe here in San Diego at the Mingei Museum at Balboa Park (www.mingei.org). I am focusing on local high quality micro-roasters and small bakeries producing products that have the look, feel and (most importantly) the taste of homemade treats. My new professional home is a truly wonderful place... The Mingei believes and celebrates human creativity, and the belief that everyday object and materials that often serve a useful purpose can also be objects of beauty. Art can happen anywhere… in any culture, in any place, created by any person. So obviously my cafe will feature thoughtful and handcrafted beverages and treats without straying into the pretentious. Look for more details coming soon!

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Nocino at home

Nocino is a beverage I've always enjoyed and imagined it would be fun to make myself. The "amaro" is used as a digestif in Italy. And since I've made tonic syrup, nespolino (loquat), vermouth and bitters it seemed like a natural step. The big issue was where to get fresh, green walnuts. Well thanks to Specialty Produce (www.specialtyproduce.com) and Nate the forager I was able to start a batch. The green walnuts need to be quartered which easier said than done. Had to resort to the cleaver for this. Once they were split they went into a trusty canning jar and were covered with inexpensive vodka. The existing recipes I've found recommended that you leave the jar in the sun for 40 days... we'll see...


Back at last!! New computer and new posts!

After  a very long month without a computer I'm back!

More to come!

Monday, May 5, 2014

Broccoli Pickle

When I began cleaning up the kitchen the other morning after making a post modern version of Beef with Broccoli (recipe coming soon) I couldn't stand the thought of throwing out the large & healthy broccoli stems. I also had a cup of liquid from preserved lemons so I thought why not combine them and see what happens. We will see...


Chef Jeff Goes Veg (for one night) —Vegetarian Dinner this Thursday!

Many said it would never happen, but I'll be teaching my own take on vegetarian cuisine this Thursday ant the Center for Living Peace in Irvine, CA. Follow the link below and I hope to see you there!








http://www.goodhappens.org/events/supper-club-chef-jeff-does-vegetarian-adults-2014-05-08

Sunday, May 4, 2014

Kitchen Project Monday

I had a rare full day off on Monday so I thought I'd tackle a "couple" of kitchen projects that had been floating around in my head for weeks... 

Lemon curd from "found" lemons

 The house across the street is empty and had nice lemons just falling to the ground so I liberated them... (http://foodinjars.com/2010/01/meyer-lemon-curd/)


Fermented strawberry/rhubarb preserves 

(Based on Mary Karlin's recipe in Mastering Fermentation) This is a recipe that has huge upside. I've made BBQ sauce, Beef and Broccoli and desserts with this product— They've all been great!




 Remember to NOT use the green leaves. They are poisonous!

Lemon syrup

I started this as a way to use the leftover lemons after they'd been juiced and zested for lemon curd. The first version was mostly just bitter. Round 2 was better but still not all the way there. It's pretty good with soda water... More to come.

Asparagus vinegar & strawberry/rhubarb fermented asparagus

Now you may be asking, "Asparagus vinegar? Why??" My take is why not? I had a bunch of stem ends so I thought I'd try the leftover vinegar technique. I just strained out the solids today and the taste is already nice. We'll see...


Umeboshi

 

Pancetta & Bacon




Bottling vinegars & ponzu



Interesting thought on recipes...

"There is a demand for recipes. And an even greater demand for substitutions for everything within the recipes, from ingredients to techniques. Recipes are guidelines. Recipes show the way. How and why you make changes will determine the outcome. Is it motivated by a need to be creative? Is it an allergy? Is it a lack of ingredients? Is it a shortage of time? And before you start ripping apart a recipe, you may look for an alternative. The recipe you want may already exist, it just takes a little more time to find it." 

                 —Aki Kamozawa & H. Alexander Talbot 
                        http://blog.ideasinfood.com

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Fermentation Class!! Seats still available...

I have been working towards this class for a couple of months (the big not-so-secret is that teaching gives me an excuse to experiment in the kitchen...) We will be covering a variety of fermentation processes in the kitchen, ie., butter, vinegars, sourdough, condiments, and even dessert ingredients!






Tuscany Supper Club Wrap-up

The striped beets after boiling and running under cold water


I just wanted to thank everyone who joined me last night for our culinary journey to Tuscany! And of course, thank you for all your help with clean-up!!

And check out the link below to my experimental slide show of the pasta rolling process.

http://slide-x.net/s/8MOvNm/

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Pressure cooker experiments


Pressure cooked Quince

The idea was to start with a raw quince, pressure cook it with butter and brown sugar and end up with nice soft, well-cooked quince... And it didn't really work. I think it was a question of time and maybe I need to add more liquid... I'll try again.



Pressure-cooker Garlic Confit

This was far more successful. I make two versions; one out of fermented garlic, and one out of raw fresh green garlic. I added butter to the olive oil in the fermented garlic version, and balsamic vinegar to the fresh garlic one. Both worked beautifully at full pressure cooked for 1 1/2 hours.




Sunday, March 30, 2014

Blood Orange Syrup & Vinegar

I was given a small bag of blood oranges and a grapefruit from a friend's yard last week. And not wanting to waste such a gift (one of my favorite aspects of living in San Diego is all the fresh fruit available for free or nearly so. More to come on that subject...) I made some blood orange syrup and with the rinds I started a batch of blood orange vinegar.

Blood Orange syrup

6-8 blood oranges
1 small grapefruit
4 key limes (or any limes)
1 cup brown sugar

I juiced all the citrus and ended up with about 400ml (about 1.75 cups). I strained the juice in to a non-reactive pan, stirred in the sugar and brought it to a boil. I simmered for 5 minutes, then strained again into small canning jars. Wiped the rims, put the lids and bands on, then processed in a water bath for 10 minutes.

AND...

*Preview of my Fermentation Class, April 17th at the Center for Living Peace, Irvine, CA*

With the citrus skins I started a batch of blood orange vinegar.

Blood Orange Vinegar

Rinds from all the citrus above
1 cup brown sugar dissolved in 3 cups of water

Pack the rinds in a large, clean glass jar. Pour over the sugar water, and add enough water to cover the rinds completely. Cover with a double piece of cheese cloth secured with a rubber band. Store in a cool dark place and check weekly. After a few days you should see bubbles when you move the jar. This means that the sugar is fermenting which is what you want. When the bubbles cease, add 1/4 cup non-pasteurized apple cider vinegar, recover with the cheesecloth and return to the cupboard. Now the alcohol will be converted in to acetic acid, aka vinegar. Filter and strain into bottles, close with a cork.

Fresh Pasta, Tomato sauce and Chicken Cutlets

** Preview of my Pasta Class, June 26th at the Center for Living Peace, Irvine, CA



 

New Pasta Roller for my KitchenAid Mixer


So after many many years of using the old-fashioned, hand crank pasta makers I have finally come into the 20th Century (yes, these are not new by any means.) Because I need or the roller to be easily transportable and usable in a variety of settings, including those lacking a true "ravioli" table like my grandmother, Mimi, had, I finally decided to go electric.

It arrived around 4 PM and I had pasta dough rolling through it about 30 minutes later!

Rolling out dough can be a bit daunting. Over the years, I've learned a few tricks to help. First after making the dough rest for 30 minutes or so. Don't put it in the fridge or you'll have to then wait for it to warm up before rolling it out. Cut a piece just larger than an egg. Set the rollers to 1, the thickest setting, and start the machine (or crank the old-school one) Feed the dough in slowly. It won't look like pasta yet; more like a slightly flattened lump. Fold the dough in half, flour heavily, and feed through again. Repeat this until it smooths out. Now go to setting 2 and repeat. For noodles I usually go to 4 for filled pasta I go to 5 or 6 depending on my dough that day. When you're happy with the piece, flour both sides heavily, and fold in half, then quarters, then eighths. them cut the pasta to the desired width. For this wide noodle I opened the pieces up and curled them into nests, dusted with more flour. I froze half the batch on a small sheet pan.


 You can also hang them to dry over a broom stick or with one of the cool pasta drying racks out there. I the end I was very happy with the quality and ease of the pasta. Below are the recipes for the pasta, tomato sauce and my chicken cutlets...


My basic pasta

2 cups of all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
2 eggs
water or olive oil

Mix the salt in the flour in the bowl of a mixer, food processor or if going old-school in a mound on a large board. Beat the eggs for a second and add to the flour. With the electric machines, they can be running or not. It takes longer if they are not but the process is actually much closer to the hand-made process. For the old-school method, make a depression in your pile of flour, add the mixed eggs, and then using a fork, slowly combine with a circular motion. It takes practice, and even Mimi, (she never wanted to be "grandma" or any other similar name) agreed that the power tool pasta was as good, or close enough to, the hand-made. Plus it takes a fraction of the time. Finally if the dough still seems a little dry add very small amounts of water or oil until you get a nice smooth dough. If it seems wet, remember a lot of flour gets worked in during the rolling.

Quick Creamy Tomato Sauce

28 oz whole tomatoes
5 cloves garlic, smashed
Bunch of scallions, chopped using the white and some green...
Olive oil
1 tsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. balsamic
1/8 cup or a handful, whole leaf mixed fresh herbs
1/2 cup sour cream
Heat oil. Brown garlic and scallions. Stir often so the garlic doesn't burn. Add the whole can of tomatoes with liquid and the fish sauce/balsamic. It will be very watery. Do not despair.
Reduce heat and simmer for 20 mins. Stirring often and breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon. The sauce will remain chunky. When the sauce is reduced stir in the sour cream and stir to blend. Finally stir in the herbs and serve.

 

Chef Jeff's Famous Chicken Cutlets

2 chicken breasts, on the bone*
2 eggs
2 cups flour
2 cups breadcrumbs, panko, unseasoned store bought, or homemade
salt and pepper

*I always try to purchase meat especially chicken on the bone. It is much cheaper by the pound and the skin and bones can be saved to make stock essentially for free!

Remove the skin from the breasts. With a sharp kitchen knife, starting at the pointed end of the breast, cut horizontally (parallel to the cutting board) to get thin 1/2" slices. Repeat until all are done. Spread them out on a plate and prep the eggs and crumbs.

I usually season the crumbs rather than the chicken. Salting the meat tends to draw out moisture, dry the meat out and can lead to the moisture leaking out and making your crust slide off. You can add fresh or dried herbs, garlic powder or whatever other flavorings you like.

Next beat the eggs with a splash of water until well combined. Set up three bowls, one each for the flour, eggs and crumbs. Dip the first cutlet into the flour making sure it's well covered, then the eggs, and then the crumbs. Repeat until all are done and set aside on a large plate in a single layer. At this point I usually wait 10 minutes or so, to allow the crust to set. Next heat a Tbsp of oil in a fry pan, and cook the chicken until crispy and cooked through, about 4 minutes per side depending on thickness. Serve with tomato sauce, pesto or even BBQ sauce.

Monday, March 24, 2014

Chef Jeff's Supper Club: ¡Cuba!

Columbia “1905" Salad-
Fresh Chayote squash for the salad. The salad also included peppers, iceberg lettuce, olives, and tomatoes.






Fried Plantains
Not quite ripe enough plantains... They were tough to peel!
Fricassé de Pollo
A delicious braised chicken stew with onions, peppers, olives, capers, and tomatoes... Great with rice!

Pernil Asado con Mojo
The Mojo marinade under way... Orange and lemon juice combined with green garlic, oregano and allspice. The pork was marinated over night, browned all over then roasted at 300º for an hour.






Torticas de Morón
Traditional shortbread cookies topped with guava marmalade whipped with cream cheese... So delicious!

Meeting two of my idols: Alice Waters and Kermit Lynch



I had the great honor to meet two of my all time idols back in early December Chino Farms, a legendary produce stand in Rancho Santa Fe, CA. (www.facebook.com/TheVegetableShop).

Alice created the extremely influential restaurant Chez Panisse (chezpanisse.com) in Berkeley, CA back in the early 1970's. California Cuisine and the farm to table movements can both be traced back to Alice. The list of great chefs who've "graduated" from Chez Panisse is long and impressive. The food is as well. Dinner at Chez Panisse is worth the effort (reservations only, taken starting 30 days in advance) and the cost (not cheap, but also not outrageous)

Kermit is the owner of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants (www.kermitlynch.com). He has championed small, traditional wineries producing unfiltered, not-so-international styled wines. As a personal aside, the worldwide growth of high alcohol and over-extracted wines (Do we really need a 16.6% alcohol chardonnay that will disintegrate in the bottle after about 2 years?) is one of the worst developments in my opinion in the history of wine. Even worse than White Zinfandel! The wines Kermit chooses to import are true to type, pure and yummy- The way they were meant to be! Look for his importer logo on the back labels at your local wine shop,