Sunday, March 30, 2014

Blood Orange Syrup & Vinegar

I was given a small bag of blood oranges and a grapefruit from a friend's yard last week. And not wanting to waste such a gift (one of my favorite aspects of living in San Diego is all the fresh fruit available for free or nearly so. More to come on that subject...) I made some blood orange syrup and with the rinds I started a batch of blood orange vinegar.

Blood Orange syrup

6-8 blood oranges
1 small grapefruit
4 key limes (or any limes)
1 cup brown sugar

I juiced all the citrus and ended up with about 400ml (about 1.75 cups). I strained the juice in to a non-reactive pan, stirred in the sugar and brought it to a boil. I simmered for 5 minutes, then strained again into small canning jars. Wiped the rims, put the lids and bands on, then processed in a water bath for 10 minutes.

AND...

*Preview of my Fermentation Class, April 17th at the Center for Living Peace, Irvine, CA*

With the citrus skins I started a batch of blood orange vinegar.

Blood Orange Vinegar

Rinds from all the citrus above
1 cup brown sugar dissolved in 3 cups of water

Pack the rinds in a large, clean glass jar. Pour over the sugar water, and add enough water to cover the rinds completely. Cover with a double piece of cheese cloth secured with a rubber band. Store in a cool dark place and check weekly. After a few days you should see bubbles when you move the jar. This means that the sugar is fermenting which is what you want. When the bubbles cease, add 1/4 cup non-pasteurized apple cider vinegar, recover with the cheesecloth and return to the cupboard. Now the alcohol will be converted in to acetic acid, aka vinegar. Filter and strain into bottles, close with a cork.

Fresh Pasta, Tomato sauce and Chicken Cutlets

** Preview of my Pasta Class, June 26th at the Center for Living Peace, Irvine, CA



 

New Pasta Roller for my KitchenAid Mixer


So after many many years of using the old-fashioned, hand crank pasta makers I have finally come into the 20th Century (yes, these are not new by any means.) Because I need or the roller to be easily transportable and usable in a variety of settings, including those lacking a true "ravioli" table like my grandmother, Mimi, had, I finally decided to go electric.

It arrived around 4 PM and I had pasta dough rolling through it about 30 minutes later!

Rolling out dough can be a bit daunting. Over the years, I've learned a few tricks to help. First after making the dough rest for 30 minutes or so. Don't put it in the fridge or you'll have to then wait for it to warm up before rolling it out. Cut a piece just larger than an egg. Set the rollers to 1, the thickest setting, and start the machine (or crank the old-school one) Feed the dough in slowly. It won't look like pasta yet; more like a slightly flattened lump. Fold the dough in half, flour heavily, and feed through again. Repeat this until it smooths out. Now go to setting 2 and repeat. For noodles I usually go to 4 for filled pasta I go to 5 or 6 depending on my dough that day. When you're happy with the piece, flour both sides heavily, and fold in half, then quarters, then eighths. them cut the pasta to the desired width. For this wide noodle I opened the pieces up and curled them into nests, dusted with more flour. I froze half the batch on a small sheet pan.


 You can also hang them to dry over a broom stick or with one of the cool pasta drying racks out there. I the end I was very happy with the quality and ease of the pasta. Below are the recipes for the pasta, tomato sauce and my chicken cutlets...


My basic pasta

2 cups of all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
2 eggs
water or olive oil

Mix the salt in the flour in the bowl of a mixer, food processor or if going old-school in a mound on a large board. Beat the eggs for a second and add to the flour. With the electric machines, they can be running or not. It takes longer if they are not but the process is actually much closer to the hand-made process. For the old-school method, make a depression in your pile of flour, add the mixed eggs, and then using a fork, slowly combine with a circular motion. It takes practice, and even Mimi, (she never wanted to be "grandma" or any other similar name) agreed that the power tool pasta was as good, or close enough to, the hand-made. Plus it takes a fraction of the time. Finally if the dough still seems a little dry add very small amounts of water or oil until you get a nice smooth dough. If it seems wet, remember a lot of flour gets worked in during the rolling.

Quick Creamy Tomato Sauce

28 oz whole tomatoes
5 cloves garlic, smashed
Bunch of scallions, chopped using the white and some green...
Olive oil
1 tsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. balsamic
1/8 cup or a handful, whole leaf mixed fresh herbs
1/2 cup sour cream
Heat oil. Brown garlic and scallions. Stir often so the garlic doesn't burn. Add the whole can of tomatoes with liquid and the fish sauce/balsamic. It will be very watery. Do not despair.
Reduce heat and simmer for 20 mins. Stirring often and breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon. The sauce will remain chunky. When the sauce is reduced stir in the sour cream and stir to blend. Finally stir in the herbs and serve.

 

Chef Jeff's Famous Chicken Cutlets

2 chicken breasts, on the bone*
2 eggs
2 cups flour
2 cups breadcrumbs, panko, unseasoned store bought, or homemade
salt and pepper

*I always try to purchase meat especially chicken on the bone. It is much cheaper by the pound and the skin and bones can be saved to make stock essentially for free!

Remove the skin from the breasts. With a sharp kitchen knife, starting at the pointed end of the breast, cut horizontally (parallel to the cutting board) to get thin 1/2" slices. Repeat until all are done. Spread them out on a plate and prep the eggs and crumbs.

I usually season the crumbs rather than the chicken. Salting the meat tends to draw out moisture, dry the meat out and can lead to the moisture leaking out and making your crust slide off. You can add fresh or dried herbs, garlic powder or whatever other flavorings you like.

Next beat the eggs with a splash of water until well combined. Set up three bowls, one each for the flour, eggs and crumbs. Dip the first cutlet into the flour making sure it's well covered, then the eggs, and then the crumbs. Repeat until all are done and set aside on a large plate in a single layer. At this point I usually wait 10 minutes or so, to allow the crust to set. Next heat a Tbsp of oil in a fry pan, and cook the chicken until crispy and cooked through, about 4 minutes per side depending on thickness. Serve with tomato sauce, pesto or even BBQ sauce.

Monday, March 24, 2014

Chef Jeff's Supper Club: ¡Cuba!

Columbia “1905" Salad-
Fresh Chayote squash for the salad. The salad also included peppers, iceberg lettuce, olives, and tomatoes.






Fried Plantains
Not quite ripe enough plantains... They were tough to peel!
Fricassé de Pollo
A delicious braised chicken stew with onions, peppers, olives, capers, and tomatoes... Great with rice!

Pernil Asado con Mojo
The Mojo marinade under way... Orange and lemon juice combined with green garlic, oregano and allspice. The pork was marinated over night, browned all over then roasted at 300º for an hour.






Torticas de Morón
Traditional shortbread cookies topped with guava marmalade whipped with cream cheese... So delicious!

Meeting two of my idols: Alice Waters and Kermit Lynch



I had the great honor to meet two of my all time idols back in early December Chino Farms, a legendary produce stand in Rancho Santa Fe, CA. (www.facebook.com/TheVegetableShop).

Alice created the extremely influential restaurant Chez Panisse (chezpanisse.com) in Berkeley, CA back in the early 1970's. California Cuisine and the farm to table movements can both be traced back to Alice. The list of great chefs who've "graduated" from Chez Panisse is long and impressive. The food is as well. Dinner at Chez Panisse is worth the effort (reservations only, taken starting 30 days in advance) and the cost (not cheap, but also not outrageous)

Kermit is the owner of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants (www.kermitlynch.com). He has championed small, traditional wineries producing unfiltered, not-so-international styled wines. As a personal aside, the worldwide growth of high alcohol and over-extracted wines (Do we really need a 16.6% alcohol chardonnay that will disintegrate in the bottle after about 2 years?) is one of the worst developments in my opinion in the history of wine. Even worse than White Zinfandel! The wines Kermit chooses to import are true to type, pure and yummy- The way they were meant to be! Look for his importer logo on the back labels at your local wine shop,

Chef Jeff's Online Reading List

In talking with friends over the last few weeks I thought it'd be great to put together a list of some of the resources I've found on the web for recipes, ideas and general food porn. Enjoy!

GENERAL SITES:

The amateur and professional links below provide a great deal of inspiration and information... There are some folks out there who put me to shame as far as creativity and guts in the kitchen... Homemade fish sauce??

blog.ideasinfood.com/

Saveur.com

Chefsteps.com

nordicfoodlab.org

www.punkdomestics.com

ruhlman.com

www.starchefs.com

www.americanfoodroots.com

www.thekitchn.com

www.southernfoodways.org

frombellytobacon.com

food52.com


FERMENTED/CULTURED FOODS:
With the rise in popularity of fermented foods, i.e., kim chee, sauerkraut, kombucha, yoghurt, etc. sites like these are proliferating rapidly as cooks and chefs try to regain traditions before they are lost forever. (see my Fermentation class April 17th...)

blog.culturesforhealth.com

www.fermentersclub.com/


PRESERVES:

foodinjars.com/

frombellytobacon.com

www.onetomato-twotomato.com


CURED MEATS:
A subject near and dear to my heart and belly- (see my Sausage class May 29th...)

curedmeats.blogspot.com

honest-food.net/

sausagedebauchery.blogspot.com/

frombellytobacon.com

www.onetomato-twotomato.com


BREAD & BAKING:

www.thefreshloaf.com/


COCKTAIL INGREDIENTS:
Some very in-depth and somewhat esoteric information on the ever growing world of cocktails. Plus for cooks like me, who love to "make it myself" the sites below provide very interesting "projects." Why not learn to make your own bitters, vermouth and nespolino liquer?

modernistcuisine.com/recipes/instant-infusions/

www.porkcracklins.net/2013/06/strawberry-balsamic-shrub/

boozedandinfused.com/

www.clubborgodivagli.com/content/nespolino-liquor

www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Sotto-Chinotto

vermouth101.com/

Monday, March 10, 2014

The Preserves follow-up Part 2

I just wanted to wrap up the last few projects from Thursday's class...

Here are the jars of Kim Chee ready to ferment in the cool cupboard.



And the tart I made with the Rhubarb preserves and stretched with Blueberry preserves... Still Delicious!!


And last but not least, Kim Chi marinated pork chops... Kim chi juice, soy sauce, ginger and scallions. They'll marinate today and go on the grill tonight.



Next Class: Chef Jeff's Supper Club: Cuban! Thursday, March 20th at the Center for Living Peace (goodhappens.org )

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Preserves Class Follow-up: Sauerkraut & Kim Chee

Sauerkraut or Kim Chee
1 (2-pound) head napa cabbage, white or red cabbage or a mix

Small head of cauliflower 
1/4 cup sea salt or kosher salt 

Water
1 tablespoon grated garlic (about 5-6 cloves)

or two green garlic stalks





For Kim Chee:
1 teaspoon grated ginger 

1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon grated garlic (about 5-6 cloves)


2-3 tablespoons seafood flavor or water 

1-5 tablespoons Korean red pepper paste (goujung)
8 ounces Korean radish or daikon, peeled and cut into matchsticks

(in this demo I am using the peeled stem of the cauliflower, since I hate to waste it!)
4 scallions, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces












Cut the cabbage and cauliflower. Cut the cabbage lengthwise into quarters and remove the cores. Cut each quarter crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips or finer if desired (remember you can cut it smaller to serve, but of course you can't put the pieces back together to make them larger later! Cut the cauliflower into bite size pieces.


Salt the vegetables. Combine the vegetables and salt in a large bowl. Using your hands (gloves optional), massage the salt into the vegetables until it starts to soften a bit (the cauliflower won't soften), then add water to cover the vegetables. Put a plate on top and weigh it down with something heavy, like a jar or can of beans. Let stand for 1-2 hours.


Rinse and drain the vegetables. Rinse the cabbage under cold water 2 times and drain in a colander for 15-20 minutes.

Pack the cabbage into the jar, pressing down on it until the brine rises to cover the vegetables. Leave at least 1-inch of head space. Seal the jar with the lid.


For Kim Chee:
Make the paste. Meanwhile, combine the garlic, ginger, sugar, and seafood flavor (or 3 tablespoons water) in a small bowl and mix to form a smooth paste. Mix in the gochugaru, using 1 tablespoon for mild and up to 5 tablespoons for spicy (I like about 3 1/2 tablespoons).

Combine the vegetables and paste. Gently squeeze any remaining water from the cabbage and return it to the bowl along with the radish, scallions, and seasoning paste.

Mix thoroughly. Using your hands, gently work the paste into the vegetables until they are thoroughly coated. The gloves are optional here but highly recommended to protect your hands from stings, stains, and smells!

Pack the kimchi into the jar. Pack the kimchi into the jar, pressing down on it until the brine rises to cover the vegetables. Leave at least 1-inch of headspace. Seal the jar with the lid.

Let it ferment. Let the jar stand at room temperature for 1-5 days. You may see bubbles inside the jar and brine may seep out of the lid; place a bowl or plate under the jar to help catch any overflow.
Check it daily and refrigerate when ready.

Check the kimchi once a day, pressing down on the vegetables with a clean finger or spoon to keep them submerged under the brine. (This also releases gases produced during fermentation.) Taste a little at this point, too! When the kimchi tastes ripe enough for your liking, transfer the jar to the refrigerator. You may eat it right away, but it's best after another week or two.